On foot between sacred ways and burial grounds
What is certain is that you are in one of the most important ancient sites and this is what I will speak about, alternating my story with curiosities that will be with you during the hike. The route I propose is in fact a mixture of history, legend, territory, and nature and starts from the basilica of Aquileia, which dominates Piazza Capitolo and which I am sure you have already visited. If you have not already done so, please add it to your agenda, because more than ten centuries of history await you inside and, even if you are not particularly attracted to art, the refined mosaic floor will touch your emotional chords with its beauty. We are in the heart of the Bassa Friulana Plains, an area featuring resurgence water, water that spontaneously springs from the ground. Nonetheless, I suggest you fill your water bottle before the start, perhaps with the fresh water coming out of the fountain in Piazza Capitolo. Looking at the Basilica turn right, do you see the two columns? It makes you wonder why two columns are standing right here. They indicate the place where once the Patriarch’s palace was standing, a religious authority that marked many centuries of the history of a vast territory stretching from Aquileia to present-day Hungary to the East and from there to Como to the West. Heading straight ahead, take the gravel road. You are skirting the recently restored Cemetery of Heroes, which preserves the remains of the fallen of the First World War. The body of the Unknown Soldier, chosen by Maria Bergamas to represent the many mothers struck by the loss of a son during the atrocious massacres of the war, departed from this site. In 1921, the soldier’s body left Aquileia to reach Rome where it now rests in Piazza Venezia, at the Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland). The cypress trees along this path dominate the scene. You will find them on your left and in front, flanking an avenue. Ah, yes! The cypress. Its upright bearing, slender features, and aromatic scent fascinate me, and then what about the plays of light along this avenue? They give off a feeling of magic. Breathe deeply, according to some theories, the aromatic air given off by these trees relieves stress and increases concentration! We all need it, don’t we? Since ancient times, this tree has evoked the idea of immortality because of its evergreen leaves and incorruptible wood.
There used to be a river port here in the Roman era, and the ruins brought to light since the beginning of the last century tell the story of this place: the warehouses, and the mooring points. I can picture it teeming with people, where ships large and small were docked, busily being loaded with amphorae to leave for other shores or supplying precious goods to the city. The amphorae that were unearthed during excavation campaigns are now preserved in the National Archaeological Museum, helping us to trace the routes that were followed by these vessels. If you have arrived at the end of Via Sacra, all you have to do is cross Via Gemina, one of the roads paved to promote trade, which connected Aquileia to Emona (today’s Ljubljana). A short avenue bordered by capitals placed on modern columns guides you to the square where the early Christian museum is located. Continue a few more steps and on your right a signpost, an invitation to take a short break and taste a glass of wine. It is up to you, but I advise you to peek through the gate. The villa you glimpse was the home of a family that employed thousands of people in the 19th century. They owned a cotton plant, mills, and land for the production of sugar beet. Today the descendants continue the family tradition with the production of wine. The road to follow is Via delle Vigne Vecchie, which crosses Via Julia Augusta, built by the Romans to connect Aquileia with Noricum to the north. Your route now crosses the countryside, with alternating olive trees and vineyards. The olive tree was introduced to Friuli by the Romans, who had created a large transport and marketing centre for the precious olive oil in Aquileia. A red wine, Pucinum, was also produced here, loved by Livia, the consort of Emperor Caesar Augustus! Remaining in the world of women, not far from the Cemetery, on the left you will notice behind a fence what remains of the decumanus of Aratra Gallia, named after the person who commissioned it. A short stretch of a road that was probably overlooked by important Domus. Several archaeological excavations are still in progress in the area, and the majestic bell tower can be seen everywhere. Be prepared for a quick diversion to the burial ground. The ancient cemetery! Observe the site of the dead to learn details about the lives of the living! You are approaching the starting point: Aquileia, the city that had a population of almost one hundred thousand residents in the imperial age, is today a small town that has jealously guarded its jewels, a book of history that increases page after page thanks to the painstaking work of archaeologists and which reveals itself to a careful visitor who, like you, step by step I am sure has managed to grasp its importance!
